Winter Alpine Mountaineering & Climbing


Foundation (Level 1), Progression (level 2) & Advanced (Level 3)

 

Foundation — Level 1

For people who are relatively new to winter mountaineering and want to build a solid foundation of winter mountain skills.

The main goal of Foundation is to give you a real sense of the winter mountains and the skills needed to enjoy them.

We’ll take the time we need to develop each skill, whether that’s assessing avalanche conditions, navigating through an ever-changing landscape, using an ice axe and crampons, or simply learning how to look after yourself during a long winter day.

Our approach is relaxed and based around mentoring rather than simply instructing. A good way to describe it is going into the mountains with a group of friends, where one person has more experience and wants to share what they have learned.

The pace is set by the group. What’s important is that you have time to understand and master the skills rather than simply experience them.

You don’t need to be an experienced skier. If you’re new to skis or have never used snowshoes before, we’ll take the time to help you become comfortable using them as a means of travelling through the winter mountains.

What we’ll explore

  • Understanding snow, weather and the winter landscape
  • Avalanche awareness and recognising avalanche terrain
  • Decision-making and risk management
  • Avalanche companion rescue
  • Looking after yourself in winter — clothing, food, drink and staying warm
  • Navigation in a landscape that can change dramatically with snow and weather
  • Using skis or snowshoes for mountain travel
  • Using crampons and an ice axe
  • Easy winter climbing on snow and ice
  • Using a rope to safeguard more difficult sections
  • Emergency procedures, snow shelters and emergency bivouacs

The aim isn’t simply to leave with a collection of techniques. It’s to begin understanding how the different skills fit together and when to use them in the winter mountains.


Progression — Level 2

For people who already have some winter mountain experience and want to develop their skills in more challenging terrain.

Progression builds on the fundamentals and starts bringing the different elements of winter mountaineering together.

We’ll travel through more varied terrain and look more closely at how snow, weather, terrain and people influence the decisions we make. You’ll become increasingly involved in planning the day, choosing appropriate routes and adapting those plans as conditions change.

We’ll also develop the technical side of winter mountaineering: movement on steeper snow and ice, anchors and belays, rope work, climbing and safeguarding ascents and descents.

At this level, the emphasis begins to shift from simply learning techniques to choosing when, where and why to use them.

What we’ll explore

  • Developing your understanding of snow and avalanche conditions
  • Avalanche terrain assessment and route choice
  • Planning a winter mountain day
  • Navigation in poor visibility and challenging conditions
  • Efficient travel on skis or snowshoes
  • Movement on steeper snow and ice
  • Developing crampon and ice-axe technique
  • Snow and ice anchors
  • Rope work, belays and safeguarding
  • Easy winter and mixed climbing
  • Avalanche companion rescue
  • Emergency procedures and winter problem-solving

You’ll increasingly be encouraged to contribute to the decisions we make throughout the day, with the instructor there to question, explain and mentor.


Advanced — Level 3

For experienced winter mountaineers who want to become more capable, efficient and independent in serious winter terrain.

Advanced is less about collecting more techniques and more about bringing your existing skills together.

We’ll aim to undertake more challenging winter journeys and climbing objectives where conditions allow, looking closely at planning, route choice, efficiency, technical systems and managing risk.

At this level, you’ll take a much greater role in the decision-making.

Rather than simply asking “What are we doing today?”, the conversation becomes:

What are the conditions? What are our options? What are the consequences? And what should we do?

We’ll plan together, make decisions in the mountains and discuss afterwards what worked, what didn’t and what we might do differently next time.

What we’ll explore

  • Planning and leading winter mountain journeys
  • Advanced avalanche terrain assessment and decision-making
  • Interpreting weather, snow and avalanche information
  • Route choice and adapting plans as conditions change
  • Efficient movement through complex winter terrain
  • Steeper snow, ice and mixed ground
  • Advanced rope work and safeguarding
  • Building and assessing winter anchors
  • Managing a group in more serious terrain
  • Emergency and self-rescue techniques
  • Balancing speed, efficiency and safety
  • Developing judgement and independent decision-making

The aim is not simply to follow an instructor into harder terrain. It is to develop the judgement, confidence and efficiency to make good decisions for yourself.

Not sure which level you are?

That’s completely normal — and you don’t need to decide on your own.

I speak with everyone before they join an Alpine Dragons course. We’ll talk about your previous winter experience, fitness, technical skills and what you’d like to achieve.

This also gives us a chance to get to know each other and helps me put together small groups of people with compatible experience and expectations.

Sometimes I’ll suggest a different level from the one you initially had in mind. The important thing is finding the course that will give you the best experience and the greatest opportunity to develop.

Get in touch and let’s talk about what would suit you.


 

Combine it with other courses

This is a self-sufficient course. However, it can be combined as part of our alpine mentoring program.

Difficulty

Endurance

    

Equipment list:

Upon registration we will send you a complete equipment list.

Boots:  You will need your own mountaineering boots that can take crampons.  If in doubt send us a picture of your boots so we can give the thumbs up. Boots_summer

In the rucksack: As a general guide the following is recommended In the rucksack

Mountaineering equipment (All this can be borrowed from us): Equipment to courses

Accommodation

The Mountain Cottage is include in the price.

Flights, train and getting there

From the Oslo Gardermoen Airport, you can take the “flytoget”  which is an express train to Oslo central station.  From there it is a short walk to the bus station.  You can take the Valdres Express bus  or VY-Buss From Oslo central to Fagernes Skysstasjon which is about 20min from my house.  The bus is comfortable, has free wifi and takes about 3 hours.  I like taking the bus to Oslo as I can look out the window and see all the waterfalls and dream about ice climbing 🙂
Nearly all participants on previous courses have travelled by the above method, and they have described it as straightforward and easy.

Equipment hire

If you need to rent equipment, that is no problem, just let us known in advance. You will receive a list of required items upon booking.

A typical Foundation week

Winter courses are particularly flexible. Snow, weather and avalanche conditions determine where we go and what we do, so the exact order will change from week to week.

Day 1 — Winter travel & looking after yourself

We start by getting to know each other and looking at the fundamentals of travelling comfortably and safely in winter.

We’ll explore clothing and equipment, staying warm, food and drink, using skis or snowshoes and how the winter environment affects the way we move and plan our day.

We’ll also begin looking at the snow beneath our feet and what it can tell us.

Day 2 — Snow, avalanches & decision-making

A day focused on understanding snow and avalanche terrain.

We’ll look at the avalanche forecast, weather, terrain and the human factors that influence our decisions. Out in the mountains we’ll practise recognising avalanche terrain and choosing appropriate routes.

We’ll also work with avalanche transceivers, probes and shovels and practise companion rescue.

Day 3 — Winter mountain journey

Time to start putting the skills together.

We’ll plan and undertake a suitable winter mountain journey, using the day’s weather, snow and avalanche conditions to decide where we go.

Along the way we’ll work on navigation, route choice, movement, decision-making and looking after ourselves throughout a longer winter day.

Day 4 — Crampons, ice axe & winter climbing

We’ll move into steeper terrain and introduce the technical skills used in winter mountaineering.

We’ll look at using crampons and an ice axe efficiently, moving on snow and ice, basic winter climbing and using the rope to safeguard steeper or more exposed sections.

The emphasis is on understanding not only how the techniques work, but when and why we might use them.

Day 5 — Putting it together

Our final day gives us an opportunity to consolidate the week’s skills.

Depending on conditions and the needs of the group, we might undertake another mountain journey, spend more time climbing, practise rescue techniques or look at emergency snow shelters and winter problem-solving.

Where possible, you’ll take a greater part in planning the day and making the decisions.

Winter mountains don’t follow a syllabus

The itinerary above is an example, not a fixed timetable.

Snow, weather and avalanche conditions can change rapidly. We may swap days around, spend longer developing a particular skill or take advantage of good conditions for a mountain objective.

Learning to recognise those changes and adapt our plans is itself one of the most important skills in winter mountaineering.