Skills level
Difficulty
Endurance
You will have undertaken an advanced mountaineering course first and have a high level of mountain fitness to complete this route.
Course Itinerary
We use first evening inside with theory, the rest of the course is practical instruction outside, traveling in avalanche terrain.
Dates
Privately arranged or as part of an advanced mountaineering course.
Equipment
- Climbing gear:5x dmm offsets, 6 cams (medium size), 3 x hex (I think size 7,8 & 9). 4 x 60cm slings (formed into an express sling arrangement), 2 x 120cm & 2 x 240cm. 2 x snow anchors, 3 x ice-screws (This was only used on the glacier and on the initial slopes of Styggedalstind after that they were stored in the rucksack). If the ridge had been dry, we could have dropped the 3 x hexs. Under icy snow conditions that we found they were very useful. 5 x dmm offsets was enough as was the range of cams. Used all the gear at some point. 240cm slings were invaluable as we often found some great big boulder belays / threads. In addition we took 6m rappel cord and used nearly 3,5m on one rappel. In the end we used 1 x 120cm and 1 x 240 sling to rappel from. Maybe 10m of rappel cord would have been more advantageous. 1 x 60m rope (Tendon 9mm can be used as 1 rope or a 1/2 rope), 1 x crampons (mountaineering) 1 x ice-axe (mountaineering)
- Overnighting:1 x sleeping mat, 1 x alpine sleeping bag,1 x bivi-bag 1 x warm jacket (synthetic) each and stove / food together. rucksack weight without climbing gear approx 10kg. We both had sleeping bags down to -5. We both woke up cold at some point. It was a cold night. This is not unusual for summer in the Jotuheim. As we slept on snow out Thermalit Z -lite sleeping mats were actually not warm enough.
- Clothing:Alpine trousers, thermals (netting x 2), long-johns (zip-on and 1 x netting), fleece and waterproof jacket / light waterproof trousers. 2 x climbing gloves and 1 x mitts, 2 x socks. 1 x hat, 1 x wool balaclava 1 x neck sock. On day 1 I didn’t wear thermals under my trousers until we came to the bivi. On the top I just wore the thermal wool netting top and the fleece and didn’t have the waterproof on. My Paramo fleece is slightly windproof. Margrethe wore her gortex over a thermal top the entire day. It was hot in the sun and cold in the shade. I used all the gloves at some point. Mitts mainly at the bivi. Used both pair of socks (dam boots at the end of the day for both of us). I had in reserve and didn’t use 1 x thermal top, 1 x zip-on long johns and 1 x wool balaclava. They don’t weigh very much and it nice to know you have some dry cloths to get into when it comes to the bivi.
- Boots:Summer Alpine. I did have cold feet at some points. Mainly due to having damp socks (and also my feet were frost damaged when dog sleding once)
- General gear:1 x first aid kit (basic), 1 x head torch plus extra batteries (each), 1 x suncream (each), 1 x Garmin in-reach GPS (group), 1 x compass (each), 1 x map (group), 1 x crampon repairs.
Prices
8000,- NOK pr person
Max 2 participants
Included
Included in Price:
– all guide/instructor fees and expenses.
– all instructional material and location rental.
Not Included in Price:
– personal ski/avalanche rescue equipment and clothing.
– transportation to/from course location.
– lodging.
– travel insurance