Styggedals Traverse (2387m)

Facts:

Jotunheim are the Alpine mountains of Norway and forms the home of most of the mountains over 2000m.  This ridge traverse is a classic undertaking and considered by some as the best of Alpine traverses in Norway. Quite an acclaim! Its takes approximately 22 hours, although the entire Hurrungane chain has been run in 24 hours.

Route description: 

1. Helgedalen to Gjertvassbreen (Gjertvasskaret):First following a tractor road, then steep ridge east of Styggedalasbreen to Gjertvassbreen. Steep crevassed snow / ice slope to the col (threatened by serac and avalanche on occasion)
2. Gjertvasskaret t0 Styggedalstind East: Steep snow and scrambling. Grade 2/3
3. Styggedalstind East to Styggedalstind West. Airy ridge.  Occasional cheeky up and down sections. Grade 2/3.
4. Styggedalstind West to Sentratind:  Scrambling with an area of Grade 3 in the runnel.  Sometimes pitched or abseiled. Steep snow traverse and airy ridge. Climbing on NE ridge to the summit of Sentraltind normally 4 pitches: 1) grade 4, 25m, 2) grade 3, 30m, 3) grade 3, 30m, 4) grade 3, 30m.
5. Sentraltind to Vetle Skagastølstind: 1 x rappel from Sentraltind to the col between Vetle Skagastølstind (30m, grade 4 if you climb it). Bivi spots and possible water. Our 60m rope just touched down on the abseil.
6. Vetle Skagastølstind to Nørdre Skagastølstind (Skagastøls traverse): Exposed airy ridge, sections of tricky down climbing. Grade 3. 3-4 x rappels (if you use a 60m rope). 1 to 2 from Midtre Skagastølstind to Berges Stol and 2 x from here to V-Skaret (possible snagging of rope on both sections). After V-skaret, scrambling with possible 1 x rappel if conditions dictate. Scrambling up to Nørdre Skagastølstind. 1) Vetle to Halls Hammer: Tricky down climbs, airy ridge to you come to the 10m rappel down Halls Hammer. 2) Delightful airy traverse over solid mountain for 300m. 3) 2 x grade 3 climbing sections along  ridge to the summit of Midtre Skagastølstind. 4) 1 x rappel (or 2 depending on conditions.  If dry you might not need any) to Berges Stol ( A flat area before V-Skaret). 5) 2 x rappel down into V-Skaret. First rappel anchor is on the west side. 6) Scramble over Skagastøsnebbet and descend to the col between this top and Nørdre Skagastølstind (possible rappel in certain conditions).
7. Nørdre Skagastølstind to Turtagrø:Brutal 600m boulder strewn descent before the beautiful walk down from the Tinde club hut to Turtagrø. A little tricky getting off Nørdre Skagastølstind if you follow the cairns.

Time:Approximately 22 hours.

Season:Normally July / August

Difficulties:  Climbing up to Norwegian grade 4, mostly however around level 3.  Ability to cross glacier and crevassed slopes up to 45-50 degrees. Between 4-6 rappels depending on conditions.  If the route is covered in snow and ice the difficulties will increase markedly, while in other areas they become much easier.

Escape routes:

Before committing to the traverse it is highly recommended to have a good forecast for the duration of your tour. Escape is often reversing or continuing along the route.

1. From the eastern end of the Styggedals ridge: Eastern ridge of Gjertvasstind can be descended. This however its a long way back to Turtagrø or Skogadalsbøen DNT hut.
2. Down from Gjetvasskardet to Gjertvassbreen:  Steep slopes and crevasses. Possible and is often used: Conditions vary markedly throughout the season. Most parties use snow anchors while in ascent / descent.
3. Between Styggedalstind and Sentraltind there are no practical escapes apart from reverse the route.  Regardless of which way you go you will need to climb or rappel.
4. Between Sentraltind to Vetle Skagastølstind: Possile to escape down Slingsbybreen after traversing over snowy shelves towards the col between Store Skagastølstind and Vetle Skagastølstind (called Mohns skar).  Difficult to locate the start from between Sentraltind and Vetle Skagastølstind, grade 2.
5. South ridge of Vetle Skagastølstind to Mohns Skar (Col between Store Skagastølstind and Vetle Skagastølstind) brings you to the top of Slingsbybreen. 2 x 25m rappels. Scrambling.
6. Vetle Skagastølstind to Nørdre Skagastølstind:  V-skaret, after abseiling the west snow filled gully can be descended. Steep snow. Alternatively going over Nørdre Skagastølstind and down north ridge. Boulder strewn nightmare for 600m.

Tips:

1. Route finding ability and Alpine efficiency.
2. Care on steep snow slopes.  Often under the first 10 to 20 cm of snow lies an ice layer. Rotten summer snow often hides this layer and unfortunately several climbers have been injured, some fatally after they have tried to traverse or descend these slopes and suddenly crash through the rotten snow and slide on the ice.

Links:

1. http://www.scandinavianmountains.com/index.htm
2. https://peakbook.org